Yes, I Know

Yes, I Know
By Dale Ghere
2000

Since 1960, surfing Lowers has always been one of my favorite spots here in southern California. At Trestles I have had many days of outstanding surf to enjoy and remember. It was one of the first places Kiwi and I would go surfing before we had to report to our beaches to lifeguard in Laguna Beach. In those days it was not unusual to be there alone in the early morning dawn hours. We would surf nearly every morning the surf was up because the Chief, Art Fisette, would allow us to be late if we went surfing before work. The options were: show up on time and do a “rock swim” for time or go on a “dawn patrol” and come to work late and miss the thousand yard swim. Art considered surfing good for developing strong waterman skills. He always said that it would make us better lifeguards.
It was not unusual for me to surf before work, lifeguard all day at Saint Ann’s Beach and then surf Brooks Street until dark. Surfing evenings in those days was usually done someplace close to home. This allowed us to eat quickly, take a long shower and get to bed early so we could get up before dawn the next day and repeat the cycle again.
As the years have gone by I’ve always enjoyed surfing the early morning hours, but for some reason the late evenings have become a very special time for me. There is something unique that happens for me as it begins to get too dark to surf, a feeling of peace and contentment. It occurs between the time I get out of the water because I can no longer see the set waves coming and the point of total darkness. During that time I am usually walking north along the beach at Trestles while watching the color of the sky change from a deep red, to purple, to black. I enjoy this time of being alone and quiet, thinking about how fortunate I am to be able to spend another evening in the water.
As my son Ryan got old enough to surf, the evening surf sessions developed into a special event for both of us; something to anticipate whenever the surf was up. To this day it is a time that we share and enjoy together.
There was such a night last summer that I always want to remember. Ryan and I had a good evening of surf together. It was glassy and warm. The waves were not large, but they were clean and had good shape. I got out of the water one set before Ryan. When he did finally make it to the beach we dressed and started walking up the beach in silence, enjoying the quietness. We had not walked very far when Ryan said, “I can hardly wait until Matthew is old enough to surf. It will be great to come surfing with my son.” I replied with, “Yes, I know.”
We walked on in silence.